July 01, 2013 New York
There's something to be said for being slightly removed from it all. Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof run their 20-year-old formalwear label from Munich, and because of that, it has a distinctly unaffected point of view. Whatever Talbot and Runhof are designing, it is very much their idea. And that's usually a good thing. For Resort, the duo relied heavily on two distinct visual resources: the digital archives of L'Officiel—particularly images from the early seventies—and the work of American photographer Saul Leiter, one of the first to experiment with color. The latter's influence was evident in the shades used: lots of peach, sky blue, and lime, but very saturated in a Technicolor sort of way. "Like a pastel, but not," Runhof said. The standout number—a fit-and-flare dress with matching cape jacket—was covered in a print engineered from a photo of ripped-up pieces of paper. "We tore them up ourselves," Talbot said. Look closely enough, and you could see the differences in the jagged edges. Other daywear, particularly a two-piece set done in a black-and-white rickrack pattern accented with those saturated pastels, had an artsy, quirky feel about it.