June 03, 2013 New York
Much of that sense of uniqueness was accomplished through fabrication—Theyskens was jonesing for technical materials this season, in particular a dense honeycomb mesh that he sculpted into a brief tunic with bell-shaped sleeves and a full-skirted dress with the nonchalance of a sweatshirt. Neither of those looks would likely duplicate clothes already in the Theyskens' Theory girl's closet, which seemed the point. Elsewhere, the cropped, narrow pants struck a nerve, as did various iterations of the deconstructed denim. Theyskens' sharp-shouldered jackets looked pretty good, too, especially in a narrow black-and-white stripe. All told, this collection was notable for the fact that it seemed to offer a complete wardrobe; if a young woman suddenly found herself remaking her closet from scratch, this collection would accommodate her pretty well. Especially if she were traveling back in time to 1996.