Resort isn't the season for flights of fancy, really, but even so, there was a winning matter-of-factness to the new collection from Theyskens' Theory. As Olivier Theyskens pointed out while presenting the collection today, his aim this time out was to make sure every piece in the collection was "a real essential," which pushed him to make a tight edit of his silhouettes. Though "real essentials" sounds like a recipe for a rather dreary range of basics, Theyskens took the opposite tack and went about designing clothes that were instantly relatable but that asserted their own uniqueness.

Much of that sense of uniqueness was accomplished through fabrication—Theyskens was jonesing for technical materials this season, in particular a dense honeycomb mesh that he sculpted into a brief tunic with bell-shaped sleeves and a full-skirted dress with the nonchalance of a sweatshirt. Neither of those looks would likely duplicate clothes already in the Theyskens' Theory girl's closet, which seemed the point. Elsewhere, the cropped, narrow pants struck a nerve, as did various iterations of the deconstructed denim. Theyskens' sharp-shouldered jackets looked pretty good, too, especially in a narrow black-and-white stripe. All told, this collection was notable for the fact that it seemed to offer a complete wardrobe; if a young woman suddenly found herself remaking her closet from scratch, this collection would accommodate her pretty well. Especially if she were traveling back in time to 1996.