We're fairly certain that Emanuel Ungaro never emblazoned varsity jackets with giant U's, but it's a new day for brand rehabs. The youth vote counts for more than nostalgia, and Fausto Puglisi, who inherited this Paris brand two seasons ago, is aiming for the former. The Italian designer, who also showed his first Resort collection for his own brand this week, indicated that he wanted to break with the house's heritage. The sporty sensibility of those varsity jackets was the clearest sign of that, but in the end, there were still faint connections. Shades of the eighties in the strong shoulders on the jackets, for example, and draped and pleated cocktail numbers in the manner of Monsieur Ungaro. The label's founder was also known for color, and there was no shortage of that either.

One of Puglisi's best ideas was his salopettes (French for overalls), in a black-and-white silk duchesse daisy pattern. On the right starlet, the long version (with a slit up to there) could make a strong statement on the red carpet. The short version will find party-girl fans; it'd be a ton of fun for a night out at the clubs. The salopettes also came in color-blocked crepe de chine, and black leather.