Veronique Branquinho presented her first Resort collection for her recently revived brand here in New York this week. Re-establishing her identity on the runway after a several-year absence has been a tricky process; it hasn't been entirely clear what she wants to say.

Her new lineup has begun to address that issue. Its foundation was the smart, no-nonsense tailoring she made her name with. A simple bordeaux pantsuit looked smart with a blue and white banker-stripe shirt in cotton voile. She also had a great pair of coats, something that many Resort collections have been strangely lacking. The first was a parka with a generous cape back, and the second, a special trench with kimono sleeves. Complementing the tailoring were unconstructed silk shifts. They had a simple ease about them, but what made the dresses winning was the 17th-century still life by Dutch artist Rachel Ruysch that Branquinho reproduced on them, borrowing the painting's bold hues—marigold, turquoise, and that bordeaux again—for graphic color-blocked designs.