June 28, 2013 London
Kit Willow was doing a lot of extrapolating this season. Her premise this time out was to work from the "grain" of her fabrics, whether that meant draping material in long swathes or pulling leather fringe from the selvage of her cotton-and-leather tweed. The latter idea she riffed into knits, laser-cut leathers, and silk prints based on the tweed and chain embellishment that mimicked the look of the fringe. The draping, meanwhile, led Willow to this collection's most compelling silhouette: the elongated tops worn over trousers. A white jacquard bustier top was particularly chic, with its train redolent of fifties couture. Elsewhere, Willow did well with her high-waist, spiral-seam trousers in the tweed print, and with a group of white silk pieces covered in black tulle. And though some of the fringing or chain embellishment came off heavy-handed, Willow's leathers made measured use of the motif, and had something of the tribal look that's become a signature of her brand. Still, this collection was at its best at its simplest.
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