June 04, 2014 New York
ADEAM's second Resort collection flies in the face of the frothy femininity sent down the catwalk just a few months ago—more or less. Here, some of the ladylike silhouettes remained, but designer Hanako Maeda had kitted them out in conceptual accents, zeroing in on the idea of wabi-sabi—organic beauty in all of its imperfections. Fitted shifts got asymmetrical cutout overlays; a metallic machine-knit felt more than a little like modern chain mail. This harder, sportier edge was echoed in slick, double-faced neoprenes. Slashed by glossy heat transfers in a graphic bamboo print, they felt downright disparate compared with Fall's brocade cocktail frocks. But Maeda hasn't banished her clearly feminine tastes and eye for the opulent: A foil plaid circle skirt seemed fresh here, and a leather trench with muttonchop sleeves was covetable. This new direction, with its tension of refinement and irregularity, is an exciting one; it seems safe to say that ADEAM's recently launched e-commerce site can expect a workout in the months to come.