June 26, 2014 New York
Albert Kriemler had Morocco on his mind for Akris' Resort collection. The North African country has been a fashion nexus since at least the days of Yves Saint Laurent, but Kriemler's is a Morocco less traveled. Rather than Marrakech or Tangier, he looked to a city in the Rif Mountains called Chefchaouen, famous for its blue-painted buildings. Blue, no surprise then, was the show's dominant color. A navy wrap coat stood out for the leather it was made in—it was paper thin—but there was no shortage of ultra-fine fabrics here. From the simple to the sublime, others worth noting included the triple-twist cotton of an elongated button-front shirt, and a waterproof material used for a trench that looked and felt like cashmere. Kriemler specializes in photo prints. Of the two he used this season—a landscape of Chefchaouen's remarkable architecture and an image of spools of thread found in a souk—the former was more compelling. It came across especially well when it was abstracted so that it appeared more like a graphic geometric pattern than a photo. By and large, Kriemler's focus was on daytime clothes, the kind you could imagine Akris' well-heeled clientele packing for a long weekend getaway. There were only a couple of evening looks to speak of. A floor-scraping organza overlay worn with a strapless sequined cocktail number was a real sparkler.
See all Timeline