June 19, 2014 London
Like his fellow Saint Martins grads, Kane had his late professor Louise Wilson on his mind this week. "'There's no such thing as bad taste,'" he quoted her. "'It's just different.'" Where do you even start with the differences in a Kane collection? It pushes technical boundaries as much as it fearlessly pushes limits of taste. It turns the shouldn't-work into a triumph. Sensational star of this particular show was "Decades," a sheath shaped from a farrago of neon lace patterned after a century's worth of floral motifs hand-drawn by the designer in the style of Art Nouveau, Art Deco, psychedelia, and more. The neon-and-lace combination was the collection's gleefully extreme cornerstone. Brassieres were showing in his lace-trimmed "X-ray" dresses. There were underwire lace cups on other dresses. "There's a definite emphasis on boobs," he said. But those neon lace flowers also trimmed denim cutoffs and formed knee patches on oversize boy pants.
The extraordinary creativity, workmanship, and brash life in these clothes give cause for regret that they are recorded only in the pages of a lookbook. But such is Kane's profligate genius that it's hard to imagine exactly what means of transmission would do his work full justice. 5-D?