"It's Resort in the truest sense of the word," said Dennis Basso of his latest effort, which was inspired by the Italian Riviera. "Glamorous people need clothes to wear in the middle of winter."

And glam they were. But to give otherwise ornate pieces a beachy ease, Basso used casual materials. On one gown, a crystal-encrusted top and cummerbund were connected to a full skirt made out of a bamboo-woven scuba. A linen column dress was decorated with rows of white grosgrain, crystals, and embroidery. And a traditional ball gown was done in a black-and-white-check gazar, paired with a buttery black leather jacket. To incorporate his signature fur in a light way, Basso topped the day looks with long, swingy vests made from strips of blond sable and laser-cut leather.

Sometimes Basso's references can go a bit overboard, but for Resort he managed to keep them in check. For the most part. A series of pink, yellow, and green looks had just enough retro tinge, especially a white-on-white plaid linen gown with a cascading ruffle and just a little embroidery. The multicolored snake vest it was paired with, on the other hand, took exotics to a place even the most flamboyant dresser might be wary of. Basso fared better with a short-sleeved alligator jacket in a subdued bisque—the pleating at the waist made it pretty.