June 25, 2014 Paris
Hours before Damir Doma presented his Spring menswear with no models and no show, he did a walk-through of his Resort collection. Whereas the menswear materializes from what Doma would want to wear, he explained that the womenswear demands more reflection—and that gradually, with each season, his idea of the Damir Doma woman has become clearer. It's true that there was a subdued confidence to this offering, which benefited from fluid tailoring and body-grazing pleated separates. Doma applied a softy pleated ribbon of fabric to one side of a jacket and a subtle metal hook to the other, creating a closure system that was simultaneously adjustable and waist defining. The two prints were both painted by hand; one as controlled narrow strips, the other à la Jackson Pollock. And Doma showed both in their "negative" colorways to add variety while maintaining a through-line. After spending years preoccupied with texture, the designer said that print invites a new way of conveying surface interest. You could see how much he is thinking about his womenswear, even when the piece is as seemingly simple as a crisp white shirt with truncated kimono sleeves, or the detail is as seemingly insignificant as a ribbed insert. While the total statement lacked oomph, the easy femininity—whether in a side-tying robe coat or an asymmetric plissé dress—was there. Doma also added in a few crossover men's pieces, such as a finely pleated bomber; it seems like he rightly senses that women may want to wear what he wears, too.
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