"Race to the Grave," the T-shirts at Diesel Black Gold pronounced. Bikers themselves may or may not have a death wish, but the biker look never gets old. Andreas Melbostad returned to it for Diesel Black Gold's new Resort collection, studding and stenciling every inch of black leather moto jackets; cutting denim miniskirts pelmet-short; and otherwise infusing the offering with its usual tough-as-nails vibe.

Another fashion perennial he tapped into this season: rockabilly. It came through in twisted Hawaiian print shirts with contrasting yokes and razor-sharp pinstriped jackets and stovepipe pants. They added a slightly dandified, somewhat more dressed-up new dimension to the label's current profile. A neoprene-bodice Hawaiian-print slipdress was almost sweet. But denim and leather remain the focal point of this brand, a point that came across in the diverse ways Melbostad treated denim. Indigo jeans dyed a deep red were subtle and cool, but the best was a pair of red denim cigarette jeans covered in messy stripes of waxy black paint. They looked utterly badass accompanied by a black tuxedo jacket with a built-in pocket chain.