June 18, 2014 New York
Dsquared²'s Dean and Dan Caten are notorious for their runway hijinks—a Valley of the Dolls drag ball one season, a Rat Pack-era tiki-bar setup another. Strip away the campy excesses of their shows and what do you have left? Plenty, in the case of the designer brothers' new collection for Resort. The Catens are exceptional tailors. It's their defining and best characteristic, and yet they often avoid the category on the catwalk. Not here. Sniffing out the seventies trend that's brewing elsewhere this season, they cut a mean pair of tailored, flared-leg trousers, the high waist making the lookbook model's legs appear about a mile long. The pants came in all manner of material—from a chinoiserie red brocade and a sage green floral jacquard to everyday cotton khaki and indigo denim. A glam yet easy seventies vibe carried over into a plissé metallic lamé halter gown with a deep side slit. At times, their penchant for embellishment got the better of them and weighed down otherwise chic pieces like a black lambskin poncho. In contrast, a black and gold fil coupe bow-neck top and matching pleated maxi skirt were flamboyant in all the right ways.
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