This Resort collection from Emporio Armani
offered an opportunity to reflect on the evolution of the whole Resort category and
Emporio itself. From something that once implied leisure, even an end-of-year getaway, Resort has, for designers like Armani, become yet another closet in the consummate urban wardrobe. And exactly the same thing has happened with Emporio. If there wasn't quite the element of unpredictable auteurism that gives the main collection its spine, there was still the sense of someone trying to give city smarts a bit of an edge. And, as usual with Armani, the key was the fabrics. Cotton silk was bonded to flannel in a little green blouson. A white taffeta coat was double-faced in green. A red dress was woven from a raffia-like cloth that actually began as palm tree leaves. And—the pièce de résistance—a white jacket in the softest plongé leather, reversed to blue nylon. That unlikely transformation signposted the sporty essence of the collection, almost as much as a coated cotton coat in an Yves Klein blue paired with rah-rah shorts.