June 09, 2014 New York
Another takeaway: Puglisi is America-obsessed. That fact came through clearest in his use of tie-dye (Resort's surprise trend) on everything from denim to crepe de chine and silk twill. On denim and chambray in particular, the tie-dye lent his new collection a more casual-than-usual aspect, as did the tanks and tees patchworked with white French terry. We could take or leave the logo sweatshirts emblazoned with the Roman symbol of Zeus or the word Spartan, but who can begrudge a fan a nicely priced gateway to a designer's brand? On the Onassis side of the uptown/downtown divide, Puglisi was playing with cut. He made his name with skirts that were part cheerleader, part ballerina, but here he was pushing a longer, slightly less look-at-me silhouette, dignified in its proportions. Try as he might, though, Puglisi can't rein in the exuberance—it's simply in his nature. Though the cut of a "nothing little coat," as he put it, was practically conservative, the leopard-spot silk cady fabric it was cut from popped. Something for every lady, then, as long as she's got a wild side.