June 18, 2014 New York
"A trip to the moon on gossamer wings, just one of those things " Giles Deacon didn't have the old Cole Porter tune "Just One of Those Things" on his mind when he conceived his latest Giles collection. But his celebration of all things trippy had a Porter-esque sprightliness: Riffing on Fantasia and Roger Corman's hallucinogenic flick The Trip, he leaned in a distinctly casual direction, with dresses shaped like oversize raver tees and indigo tie-dyed jacquards that read a bit denim. He also shied away from his usual favorite fabric, duchesse satin, focusing instead on more relaxed materials. But the collection was hardly lacking in textural richness—there were tons of sequins and bright 3-D flowers. A very cool use of vinyl coating, deployed here to make a tonal floral pattern on such pieces as a bustier-topped black dress, also stood out. There's one girl or a few who will go gaga for Deacon's sequined flamingo looks, which had a cheerful wit, but the tie-dye (a definite highlight of this collection) ought to reach a far broader audience. Some pop, some poetry: Very Cole Porter, indeed.
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