"It's like a Birkin. Everyone knows what you're wearing when you wear it," said Lubov Azria of the classic Hervé Léger bandage dress, which was recently donned on the cover of Time magazine by transgender actress Laverne Cox. But how to make that oft-repeated style part of the headline once again? "With Hervé Léger, we stick to a very particular silhouette, so this time we wanted to create movement in the clothes," Azria said.

The inspiration for Resort was a trip to Rio, which meant plenty of color and even more fringe. A dress in a batik floral 3-D jacquard was studded for added flair, as if that were needed. Another studded number—this one a skimpy white mini—had a skirt made of looped fringe that swooshed around in a fun, if over-the-top, way.

Azria played with separates, too. A jacquard sweatshirt—paired with a striped pencil skirt in the same palette of blue, black, white, and fluorescent yellow—had a celebratory feeling. Yet the best pieces weren't the experimental ones. Instead, slightly updated styles from the archives felt the most modern, such as a white bandage top with a netted insert at the collarbone, and its counterpart, a black gown.