June 25, 2014 Milan
The spokesperson for the Jil Sander team was careful to point out that the salient detail of the label's Resort collection was not a bow. It was a knot. The distinction was worthwhile. While Japanese cotton or technical duchesse was tugged into a little ball at the front, it was released in the back to create swinging, sculpted shapes. That relaxed play with volume characterized the clothes, whether in the cinching of coats and dresses, the little flurry of ruffles on the front of a coatdress, the pajama-like languor of the pantsuits, or the trapeze silhouettes. The monochrome palette—white, black, and rust predominated—was a Sander signature, to which a print inspired by the work of artist Raymond Hains added some necessary visual zap. But given that this was the last time at the rodeo for the team before they welcome yet another creative director into the fold, they did a pretty good job of upholding the core values of the brand. They have kindly set the stage for a seamless transition.
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