June 12, 2014 London
But beyond any of that, Anderson's particular obsessions aren't really bound by gender. Where your pockets are positioned, how you put your hands in them—these were issues that fascinated him this week. So his chinos had pockets placed low at the front, creating a slightly awkward stance. Awkwardness is the sort of abstraction the designer loves. However, his Resort collection soft-pedaled on the abstract in favor of "wearability with an edge." There were some splendid items, like the trench cut from toile-ing canvas, with buttons of horn, and the draped, almost tribal pieces cut from textile maker Jessica Mort's weave of jersey and Airtex. Anderson's new position at leather house Loewe influenced a neat little blouson with a collar of red napa leather and a lining that is usually used in bags. The precision of these looks was a smart and necessary counterbalance to the elongated, morose outfits, which seemed less engaged by wearability.
As far as edge went, the most striking elements in the collection were the ceramic cuffs Anderson commissioned from an Irish artist. Not remotely practical, he acknowledged, but they felt good.