June 10, 2014 New York
It could've gone kitsch, but it didn't. The clothes had a nice, graphic sensibility. Chalk that up to Leon and Lim's exaggerated take on typical French marinière stripes and their bold use of polka dots, one of Resort's recurring motifs. (Puffed-up cotton separates somewhat clouded their streamlined message.) The Kenzo designers are the ones who kick-started fashion's current mania with logo sweatshirts. This show was blessedly free of them, which elevated the proceedings further. But that didn't mean the label's signature look was completely grown-up. Pinafore dresses and printed rompers and minis ensured that the mood remained young and energetic. Still, the most striking look was the most sophisticated: A royal blue ankle-grazing silk shirtdress with a split side seam exposed a whole lotta leg over flat gladiator sandals.