June 21, 2014 London
Last season, Katrantzou's collection was inspired by symbols and signs, tokens of nonverbal communication. The once-upon-a-time nature of Swan Village signposted Resort's new direction—storytelling through words and everything to do with them: letters, calligraphy, fonts, typography. The in-house design team's source material ranged from the medieval Book of Kells to Art Deco Maxfield Parrish to graphic design legend Milton Glaser, with letters used every which way, from jacquarded to embossed to glitter-flocked onto chiffon. Glitter was, in fact, sprinkled liberally over the entire collection, like Tinker Bell's stardust. Katrantzou couldn't get enough of the glitter tulle she found in the archives of the company that supplied her with the sparkly stuff.
So graphic was the content that it demanded simplicity from the style. Katrantzou thought short was the most suitable silhouette, especially flaring little bloomers. The shapes of the letters themselves also played a part: S-bend, V-neck, an A-shaped halter, its crossbar formed by a belt. And one of the season's smartest brand extensions was the set of four handbags, spelling M, A, R, and Y.
Katrantzou's mastery of her craft is now so complete that each collection is more enthralling than the one before. Which, considering that it was a pre-collection, not designed to be exhibited on a catwalk, made Resort even more impressive. At one point, she did consider showing it as her main line for Spring, but figured it was visually too close to Fall. Besides, she already had something else in the pipeline for September. And that's what we call luxury of choice.