Markus Lupfer has been around for at least a decade and a half, but he showed us this season that he is not beyond a growth spurt: "For Resort 2015, I wanted something a bit more grown-up and unique, not just the silhouette, but also the fabric. So we made prints and fabrics that to us felt richer, deeper, and very much our own." His slogan-sweater-wearing girl is suddenly more soigné, a message he telegraphed with a ladylike cocktail dress in a subtle Lurex jacquard. The new elegance continued in a tailored jumpsuit in a floral matelassé. Incidentally, it's the first time he did a jumpsuit, and he did an exemplary job.

The designer is of the firm belief that if you don't love textiles, you don't love fashion—and he spends as much time toiling over his materials as he does actual creating. One such textile was the orange and indigo fil coupe he used on skirts, bomber jackets, and dresses, layering it over bright cottons to create a patterned motif. Though he said the pattern was meant to be tribal in nature, it looked more like a chevron or a geometric graphic to this reporter, a case of mistaken identity that delighted Lupfer: "I didn't want to be too overt in my tribal message but for it to have a modern tone. So if you see something else, that's fine by me."

Lupfer's best-selling silhouettes also appeared: City shorts, a crop top, and a full skirt hit all the commercial notes. A skater dress with cutaway detail at the waist and a body-con dress with thick elastic straps ticked the work-to-cocktail-hour box. But there had to be fun, otherwise his die-hard fan base would never forgive him. For the loyalists, there were jungle-, monkey-, and banana-print looks, not to mention a slogan sweater that said, "Fun Forever." All in all, Lupfer managed to keep his brand DNA of youth and cool, yet showed steps toward a new maturity.