MM6 Maison Martin Margiela
May 28, 2014 New York
The inaugural effort kept in line with what MM6 typically offers: designed—but not overly so—separates that are just a little weird without being unwearable. A pair of cropped black trousers, for instance, were made interesting by a detachable pleated skirt that covered only one pant leg. It could have gone wrong, but instead there was an unexpected nonchalance about the look. Other relaxed styles included a slightly oversize dress in worn-out satin, and a blazer tied together with cotton kimono ribbons so that it could be wrapped as close to the body as desired. The cotton ribbons showed up again above the elbows of a white-collar shirt to give the arms a new shape.
The house seemed to be looking at Americana through Japanese eyes. An American Pop Art-style print—used best on a well-fitting jumpsuit—was equally inspired by Japanese comic books. And there were "cowboy" ideas throughout, from the denim culottes to the Western-collar dress.
It was all very well done, to be sure. But what's notable here is the fact that MM6 is still carefully priced. It's easy to find dresses on the contemporary floor that reach $800, $900. That aforementioned satin number will be less than $650. While it's certainly not inexpensive, there's legitimate value there.