Like a lot of intellectual designers, Marios Schwab
has a tendency to overthink his collections. Which is why Resort tends to be such a good season for him—given the commercial imperatives, Schwab is forced to underthink, for once. This latest outing found him underthinking at a very high level indeed, distilling the strongest of his recent runway ideas into some really appealing clothes. Case in point, the denim, which was an emphasis here: Women are going to go mad for Schwab's little raw-edged dresses with lace inserts and/or corset-inspired shaping details. They were wearable yet distinctive, exuding low-key glam. Schwab's new soft tailoring had the same vibe, and as much panache. A green silk suit, featuring trim pants and a collarless jacket, was a grown-up take on insouciant chic. Ditto the trousers and crisscross top with a trailing back that Schwab showed for evening. The trick here seemed to be that Schwab limited himself in each piece to one key element—the cape on a blouse, or the mesh ribbon along a collar, or the tuxedo pocket on a tunic-style gown. Less thinking, more intelligence. Way to go.