Alessandro Dell'Acqua's signature has always been a sly blend of the proper and the provocative. His bourgeois gone bad is Milan's own Bella di Giorno
. But Dell'Acqua said he'd added a taste of London for Resort. Going international makes sense—No. 21
seems to be flourishing globally—and maybe there was
something of London's print renaissance in this collection's visuals, and a natural Brit loucheness in the generally dishabille mood, like the slouchy juxtaposition of outsize biker jacket, sundress, and jeweled sandals. And perhaps the girlishness
spoke of London to Dell'Acqua. But what was really on display was the designer's usual deftness with duality. His clothes have a curiously suggestive attitude. Like a masculine black bomber that spun to reveal a black lace back. (His clothes coming often make a different impression than they do going.) Or the pretty frocks that were aggressively cinched (none more so than an evening dress in buttery organza). Or a lavishly pailletted sweater in sky blue paired with crepe de chine track pants, the very definition of decadent activewear. And there is always Dell'Acqua's way with sheer. Funny how the sweetest girl in all the world can look racy when there's a slip showing somewhere.