June 13, 2014 New York
At any rate, the ideas here were worth exploring. Conceptually, the most interesting one was about magnification vs. micro-fication, demonstrated in prints that featured photographic fronds and palm trees, on the one hand, or magnified bacterium (or something) on the other. One pill makes you larger, and one pill makes you small. And the trippiest print of all, for some reason, was the one with all the anemones. Why anemones? Why not? Lim and Leon used the anemones in both the men's and women's collections.
From the point of view of sales, meanwhile, the most interesting thing in the women's collection was the new denim. As Leon explained, Opening Ceremony has no intention of getting into the skinny denim trade; they just want to use denim as a fashion fabric. They'll find lots of takers for their printed and stitch-detail minis and jeans, which looked particularly good paired with this collection's fine, graphic ottoman knits.
Over on the menswear side of the store, the vibe was more sporty. Mesh, zip details, anoraks. Fabrications were key here, with cool materials like a latex-coated cotton done in yellow or a spongy technical that gave pieces like a natty gray coat a futuristic feel. The op-art knits compounded the trippiness. Taken together, these men's and women's collections may mark the moment that Opening Ceremony matured its tone from quirky-cute to downright weird. Which isn't a bad thing in the least.