June 03, 2014 New York
Swimwear fun fact: Apparently the first racing suits were made of knit wool. That's according to Flora Gill, who dropped that piece of trivia apropos of the new Ohne Titel collection, which featured knit bikinis. Not that Gill and partner Alexa Adams are out to convince the women of the world to forsake their Speedos—at an appointment today, the duo admitted that they see the scuba-style knit tops mixed with other clothes in the collection, with the matching bottoms (sold separately) serving as more of a niche item. And that, in a nutshell, was this collection's one concession to fancy. These clothes were very, very commercial. And that's not a knock—it's much to Adams' and Gill's credit that they can apply their remarkable technical ingenuity to the making of pieces like this season's seamless, reversible knit jacquard dresses, which came with kicky flares and op art stripes inspired by the work of sixties artist Sven Lukin. Women will like those dresses, and they'll also like the innovative knit pleated ones with the crisscross bodices, and the non-knit versions done in leather foil-printed chiffon. There will also be a customer for the poncho in an abstracted zebra stripe, among many other pieces here. Long story short, Ohne Titel wasn't pushing the woman who buys its clothes to challenge herself this season. But Gill and Adams were clearly pushing themselves to find new ways to interest her, and make accessible shapes feel fresh.
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