July 06, 2014 New York
There was no Rita Ora emerging out of a burning car or Theophilus London atop a Jet Ski, but at a recent showroom presentation of Philipp Plein's Resort '15 offering, what was lacking in pageantry was counterbalanced by the designer's more-is-more credo in full force. Pop Art irreverence got a big nod here: Pair upon pair of Lichtenstein-esque crimson lips studded pieces from jeans to jackets to gowns. "Drunk in Love" and "J'Adore Plein!" they cried through speech bubbles. Those pouts were mostly crafted in crystal; it seems likely that Swarovski also "adores Plein," who could perhaps single-handedly keep the Austrian brand in the black with his love of all things encrusted. Here that included velour neon tracksuits embellished with his signature skull. Elsewhere the designer served up pieces with a bubblegum punk flair, like generous zipper accents alongside a flouncy mini, acid-hued leather bolos, and fitted moto jackets with ample cutouts on the sleeves. This delivery is poised to hit stores not long after Plein's first New York boutique bows on Madison Avenue in September; only time will tell if these pieces resonate as lucratively with Manhattanites as they do Muscovites and Miamians.