In his first two collections for Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena confirmed that he does not feel inextricably linked to metal mesh. This time around, he pushed further beyond the Rabanne rule book and used certain archive elements as punctuation rather than talking points. On the subject of talking points, the T-front tank, its deeply scooped side neckline shifting the décolletage emphasis, definitely qualified. (The underlayer visible in the photos is a bikini top—and its bottom appears as the silver waistband above the low-slung skirts.) Ditto a leggy pair of Japanese denim jeans that were foiled in silver. As for his punctuation, Dossena developed chunky logo buttons that anchored a classic navy boiled-wool duffle coat and dotted the side of a little black shift. There was a pixelated logo T-shirt, too—it was the closest the collection came to a motif and hinted at the imperative for recognizable branding.

Very deliberately, Dossena hewed to minimalist sixties and nineties references and limited his ornamentation to sporty piping, red topstitching, and metallic striping across knitwear. Youthful, certainly, but he's rightly betting that this is his target market. And in spite of the cool, he prioritized craft with pliant panels inserted into his tailoring and seams that curved around garments rather than running straight. Likewise, the chain mail seemed remarkably supple, forming a fluid frill at the base of a miniskirt or wrapping smoothly around the torso as a top that anticipates the need for some holiday season shine. The new school of Rabanne styling (with Marie-Amélie Sauvé as a key member of Dossena's team) would suggest pairing it with the skater-style shorts or basketball warm-up pants, both in silky nylon. That's just the way Dossena plays.