June 19, 2014 Paris
Very deliberately, Dossena hewed to minimalist sixties and nineties references and limited his ornamentation to sporty piping, red topstitching, and metallic striping across knitwear. Youthful, certainly, but he's rightly betting that this is his target market. And in spite of the cool, he prioritized craft with pliant panels inserted into his tailoring and seams that curved around garments rather than running straight. Likewise, the chain mail seemed remarkably supple, forming a fluid frill at the base of a miniskirt or wrapping smoothly around the torso as a top that anticipates the need for some holiday season shine. The new school of Rabanne styling (with Marie-Amélie Sauvé as a key member of Dossena's team) would suggest pairing it with the skater-style shorts or basketball warm-up pants, both in silky nylon. That's just the way Dossena plays.