This was a big week for Roksanda Ilincic
: On Monday, the London designer opened her first shop, on tony Mount Street in Mayfair. And, as she explained at an appointment today, the preparations for opening the store had a profound influence on the design of her new collection. In essence, Ilincic said, she treated this season as a kind of retrospective, repeating—in the most emphatic possible way—all the key signatures of her brand. Foremost among those? Color. This was an eye-popping collection, to say the least, but it also demonstrated Ilincic's interests in sculptural shapes and innovative textiles, like this season's silk-nylon jacquard, which had a quilted effect but was actually super-lightweight. The dresses with a very cool hand-embroidered PVC thread, meanwhile, looked like they weighed a ton. Elsewhere, Ilincic extended the industrial theme to her print, which was based on a photo of melted plastic capsules. From a distance, it looked like confetti.
The other big themes of this collection were Ilincic's Constructivist-esque color-blocking, effected through patchwork or bonding, and her sculptural folding and draping, which occasionally took on a Serra-ish monumentality. The monumentality ought to evolve, or be put away after this season, though—the looks that hewed closer to the body felt fresher. To wit, Ilincic had a terrific pale pink patchwork dress with a soft, sculptural side drape, a shape she repeated in a few other materials and colorways. She knows when she's onto something—which she definitely was in her new range of lightweight knits. They packed a lot of punch, those sweaters, and they could be dressed up or dressed down. Ilincic will sell a ton of them on Mount Street.