May 29, 2014 London
Roland Mouret's pre-collections make up 70 percent of his turnover. He's by no means the only designer who comes up with such numbers, but he's a rare bird for his absolute pragmatism about what these collections mean to him. "These clothes go straight into the wardrobe of my customer," he said after his presentation in his London shop the other day. Or, to rephrase that with his characteristic bluntness, Mouret's shows in Paris give him an opportunity to stretch, while his Resort collection is all about sales. Which, this time, meant one thing: the Galaxy dress, the item that first fired the flames of fandom for Mouret. He thought it was the right time for a revisit. "People know where I started, but they don't see it anymore," he explained. So here was the new-look Galaxy, in all its seamed, zipped, geometric, body-conscious glory. It was shown with a leisurely new attitude: colored in gelato shades of pink, turquoise, and orange ("seventies colors," Mouret called them) and paired with flat sandals. "You could be in the South of France, you could be in Shoreditch," the designer said. Or you could even be in some Beat café on the Left Bank. And that same mood—relaxed but streamlined—extended to a coat with casually rolled sleeves and a swingy top with a black-and-white 3-D effect. But, inevitably, it was Mouret's attention to the body that left a lasting impression. A sinuous evening dress, a halter-neck black jumpsuit with a back in white lattice—they're the stuff of Bond girl fantasies, and it was smart of Mouret to remind us of how well he can pull off such looks.
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