Desire: It's something that secondary lines often ignore, diffusing past ready-to-wear collections into pieces that are standard and serviceable and, at worst, un-fun. But that's not what's going on at See by Chloé, where creative director Clare Waight Keller references the house codes in an outgoing, joyful way that urges shoppers to want it just as badly as they might have wanted the original.

While there's always an English rose lurking in the background at See by Chloé, Waight Keller looked to Southern California skater girls to drive Resort's particular aesthetic. (Kim Gordon and Sofia Coppola's names also surfaced in her stream of ideas.) To merge the two worlds, she used broderie anglaise on a street-inspired sweatshirt, and added sporty stripes to a dainty, puffed-sleeve frock. A drop-waist T-shirt dress with sailor stripes at the hem was worn with skater shoes, while a collegiate-looking red-and-white-striped sweatshirt was paired with a dainty white miniskirt. A backward overall dress, attached to an engineer-stripe tee, had an appealing, OshKosh-for-grown-ups feel.

Woven throughout the collection were elements from the Chloé archives—most notably, a few of Karl Lagerfeld's animated prints. Waight Keller used his cloud rainbow on a pair of basketball shorts and a matching top, and magnified his classic stars on multiple pieces for a new effect. She did the opposite with a comical lightbulb pattern, shrinking it down to decorate a pair of running shorts. By manipulating these classics, Waight Keller made them very much her own, using imagination and confidence to make her dip into the past creative and interesting.