June 09, 2014 New York
"You know those really ugly gerbera daisy floral arrangements they sell at the deli? You know how you see those and wonder, Who buys those? Well, I bought them." Thus did Thom Browne explain the genesis of his expansive, posy-filled collection. Browne elaborated on his floral theme in every way he could think of, creating flowery prints, hand-painted knits, and dense silk jacquards, not to mention a variety of three-dimensional floral embroideries that were a highlight of the collection. A jacket covered in multicolor crocheted flowers was truly extraordinary, and a black-and-white silk sheath, constructed from flat panels, got a jolt of sweetness from fluttery floral appliqué. The latter was a relatively pared-down look; in general, Browne's proposition was to mix up his exuberant florals as much as possible. It wasn't wall-to-wall botany, though. Other collection standouts were the mid-weight tweeds, in particular the cotton version in signature Thom Browne red-white-and-blue tones knitted into a fitted jacket and matching pleated skirt. There was quite a bit to like here, in fact—even a woman wary of Browne's eccentricities would find it hard to miss the appeal of a high-waisted A-line skirt in a gaudy floral silk jacquard. Browne showed that piece with a hand-painted floral polo and a navy jacket in a different, multicolor floral print. But he's a fan of muchness. One wonders what might happen if he took inspiration from the bodega cat.
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