June 05, 2014 New York
In a Resort season that's been particularly heavy on nautical references, Amy Smilovic scored funny points this week for giving her latest Tibi lineup a playful "dirty sailor" theme. There was something about the collection's gritty, naval-inspired prints that conjured visions of tatted-up seamen manning a cargo ship. Naturally, Smilovic trod lightly on that specific notion, but she couldn't resist the opportunity to sprinkle quintessential Cruise motifs such as bateau stripes, toggle closures, and lace-up rope accents throughout. Still, the savvy designer understands that her contemporary customer spends more time working and playing hard in the city than she does lounging around Greenwich Yacht Club (where Smilovic has been a dress-code-subverting member for more than a decade). So she pushed those conventional marinière tropes forward by mixing vertical and horizontal boater stripes together on a roomy pair of silk and wool culottes, for example. She also updated an otherwise simple, "eased up" black suit with graphic armband marks. Other highlights included cropped fisherman's sweaters, roomy trousers cut from sandy-hued leather, and an architectural white cocktail number that stood away from the body beautifully. Tibi offers easy yet directional pieces like those at an accessible price point, and that keeps Smilovic's clothes in the arsenal of fashion editors and stylish girls alike.
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