June 02, 2014 New York
It's not clear that seeing Nickerson's show Terrain was the direct impetus for Tome's launch of the White Shirt Project. What is clear, if you've seen her photographs of African farmworkers, is that they had a very direct influence on the look of Tome's clothes—everything from the leafy silk print to the unusually varied palette, which ranged from rose pinks and mauves to mustard yellow, earthy greens, and brown. Riffing on the African theme, but in another way, Lobo and Martin also paid subtle homage to YSL's legendary Safari collection, with looks that incorporated safari jacket pockets and laces. There was a sporty vibe here in general, with a couple of dressy anoraks, blouson shorts, and button-downs with tails meant to stay untucked. The dressier looks, meanwhile, were best when simple—a spaghetti-strap pencil dress in white with a light touch of pleats was a standout. Lobo and Martin also updated their signature lace looks, executing them in easy shapes, with black rubber zips that gave the pieces a little Belle de Jour frisson (another wink at YSL?). Elsewhere, there were new versions of tried-and-true Tome items—the broad karate pant, the oversize trench. All in all, this collection felt less monumental than previous Tome outings, and the lighter tone suited both the clothes and the season.