A year and a half into his tenure at Emanuel Ungaro
, Fausto Puglisi is picking up on the challenges of brand revivals. "The risk of looking too closely at the archives," he said today, "is that the clothes don't look down-to-earth enough for a real girl." The trick, he knows, is hitting a woman where she lives, and Puglisi has an increasingly good handle on that, as evinced by pieces like short A-line cocktail dresses and flowing maxi dresses in zebra stripes and micro-florals, respectively. Also spot-on: loose-fit jeans worn with an embellished bra top and a printed blazer slightly eighties-ish in its proportions. A sweatshirt printed with the likeness of Madame du Barry (Marie Antoinette's arch rival) and the word Wyoming
, on the other hand, was a bit of a stretch, not to mention a little tired, even if we appreciated Puglisi's reasoning: "It represents freedom." It was the exception to the rule here. Other things we liked: a versatile and sexy jersey dress that draped a multitude of ways from an elastic band on the inner waist, and a long printed dress gathered and draped at the hip with a small ruffle that Ungaro himself would recognize. Maybe the archives aren't the enemy after all.