June 12, 2014 New York
"Very trippy. It's GBV, but in a psychedelic, kaleidoscopic way, with so many flowers you can almost smell them." Giambattista Valli's new Resort collection, as he put it himself, is potent stuff. Bright pink and Parma red flowers blur together on a silk peasant blouse and high-waisted flares; embroidered red lips lifted from Man Ray encircle the waist of an ivory cocktail number; and three-dimensional plastic rosettes bloom from the sides of a party dress. Much of it will prove fairly irresistible to his jet-set customer, especially after a Fall collection that found Valli exploring somewhat challenging bell-shaped pannier silhouettes and, at times, strange shaggy fabrics. The collection was notable for its diversity—the designer embraced short and long, covered-up and bare, soigné and sporty. Holding it all together were familiar Valli-isms, like grosgrain ribbons trimming the waistline of dresses and geometric patchworks of mismatched prints. Best in show were the pieces that keyed into Resort's emerging 1970s trend: for day, a pair of those leg-elongating flares worn with a cardigan jacket in mismatched lace, and for evening, a bohemian beauty of a long dress in printed chiffon with a built-in capelet. Flower power, indeed.
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