No one who attended Viktor & Rolf
's Spring Couture presentation in January will forget the frizzy-haired ballerinas crisscrossing each other en pointe in second-skin dresses ornamented in tattoo-style ink. They lingered on the designers' minds, too—specifically, their style beyond the stage. It's unlikely that any dancer would don a swan as large as the one that appeared knitted and feathered as an appliqué on a sweatshirt for Resort. The large pattern of plumes was pretty—and marginally less literal. But the fluid skirts, softly ruffled blouses, and languid jumpsuit, all in pastel hues, seemed most in line with the collection's premise and reflected V&R's desire to add a fresh ease to their silhouettes. Likewise, a new, more compact "baby" version of their best-selling Bombette bag confirmed that they can appreciate the impact of a smaller statement. Still, a collision of color—almost fauvist in its vibrancy—and material patchwork (including glittery tulle) proved too tempting to resist, as did the comparatively sober black and white contrast that defined the final looks. It's tough to predict whether the crisp white shirts with exaggerated detailing will outperform the boxier dresses with their modified camouflage cloqué motif. They will both find their place in the broader Resort repertoire—just independently, not as a pas de deux.