June 12, 2014 New York
Goga Ashkenazi and her Vionnet team have made some corrections since February, replacing the heavy fabrics and challenging layers of the label's recent show with a Resort collection that was lighter in many ways. Dragonfly wings were the starting point. Their iridescence suggested the multicolored jacquard used for a popover top and matching A-line skirt, and their intricate patterns provided the tracery print found on a weightless handkerchief-hem dress. An embroidery of the same motif appeared on the inside of a technical fabric dress, but it was somewhat ponderous, where the other frock was airy. The most striking interpretation of the wing idea came on a long halter dress on which the pattern was magnified into bold color-blocks of silver, nude, white, and black. Its graphic look complemented other dresses featuring art deco stripes, a modern nod at Madeleine Vionnet's legacy. Sneaker-sandal hybrids gave the collection an of-the-moment spin.
See all Timeline