June 10, 2014 New York
Over the past five seasons, Novis' Jordana Warmflash has been honing in on her brand message, which involves taking classically feminine pieces and giving them a quirky twist. For her debut Resort collection, the up-and-coming designer revisited Pop Art-inspired prints (Fall referenced Paul Klee; Spring drew on the works of Herman Miller and Eames) in unexpected, off-kilter color combinations. Juxtaposing saturated shades of grass green, cobalt blue, and cherry red, Warmflash articulated the lineup's key graphic in a variety of fabrications, featuring the vibrant block pattern in jacquard on a shapely car coat and voluminous pleated shorts, which were mixed together with matching intarsia sweaters. Continuing to play with scale and proportion, she blew up a section of the artisanal motif and incorporated it into a breezy organdy shirtdress with a built-in sash detail around the waist. It had a more subtle appeal than the clashing looks, as did a simple, white leather frock and crisp, wide-legged jumpsuit cut from a stretch cotton sateen. Elsewhere, Warmflash experimented with embellishment in the form of a shimmery, sequined cocktail number (the paillettes were placed on organza to create the impression of stripes and paint blobs). It was a definite standout that was at once youthful and sophisticated, and captured the essence of who the Novis girl is.