To get a sense of the offbeat sensibility of Pookie and Louisa Burch's still young Trademark
label, click through to Look 4. Djellabas are fairly standard fare come Resort time, but not in the crisp, preppy plaid they showed theirs in, and not with shirt cuffs, either. It's elements of surprise and attentive little details like those that have captured fashion's attention, although it probably hasn't hurt that they're the daughters of C. Wonder's Chris Burch, or that Tory Burch is their former stepmother. Trademark's first boutique is set to open in Soho shortly before September fashion week. It will be interesting to see how some of the heavy, thick fabrics that the sisters tend to favor will perform at the new shop. The feltlike wool of one dirndl skirt looked a bit stiff. Let's call it a beginner's mistake. But if that was a slight miscalculation, there were plenty of other winning pieces. A denim barn jacket with a red shearling collar will be a popular item in store, as will the knits. Sweaters continue to be a highlight for Trademark; this season it was the trompe l'oeil twinset in royal blue and red that really stood out. Another clever idea: a silk evening pajama set in navy and off-white for the girl who wants to look pulled together without pulling on a dress—offbeat, in the best way.