It was full speed ahead for Ann Demeulemeester, who successfully revitalized her signature designs while staying true to her well-known style. The mood was decidedly urban and gritty: There were blasted black leather coats with asymmetric skirts, stressed orange suede jackets, aged wool coats and washed black-denim ensembles. Demeulemeester's usually stark color scheme of black and white was livened up by purple military-inspired overcoats, lime-green papery tops, floor-sweeping orange skirts and a glorious sleeveless fur wrap with unfinished edges. Sequined tops, fur mufflers and yellow knit wraps gave a fun, luxurious edge to the great-looking collection.