Celine

PARIS, February 29, 2000
By Hamish Bowles
To the rousing chords of the theme music from Dynasty, Michael Kors took Celine on a playful romp through the high-excess '80s. It was a case of "move-over-Nolan-Miller" as Kors paid tribute to the campy deluxe looks once worn by Alexis Carrington and her rivals. You want luxury Dallas-style? Kors has it in spades. That black-and-gold-brocade Anna Karenina jacket? How about adding sable cuffs, collar and center banding? And why not swag golden chains as fastenings across it too. A chocolate Persian midi coat? Hem it with deep bands of cocoa mink. That black Swarovski-beaded shirt? Why not wear it with a leopard-beaded and ostrich-hemmed skirt.

Kors claimed Oscar nominee Chloë Sevigny as his primary inspiration. Although Sevigny is barely old enough to have experienced the decade firsthand, she has an insouciant way with great clothes of recent vintage—like '70s Saint Laurent pieces—that place her ahead of the fashion curve. Kors revisited the Saint Laurent ideal via off-the-shoulder satin print gypsy dresses in café au lait, paisley or leopard-print satin. Bold Chanel overscale tweed weaves also put in an appearance.

Kors is obviously targeting the glamorous young Park Avenue princesses who want to play dress-up in clothes they (just) remember their moms wearing. And who knows—Mom herself might be tempted to relive the glory moment too.

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