Peter Speliopoulos takes the Milanese route for Cerruti, with a collection that provides an elegant, low-key spin on the trends du jour.

Thus, neat Duchess of Windsor coats with the look of Julianne Moore's '40s costumes in The End of the Affair are interpreted in subtly beautiful Cerruti fabrics—like a black wool flecked with ruby glitter, or a pepper-and-salt tweed that catches a bordeaux-colored shadow in movement. The retro ladylike look follows through to the longer skirts with a graceful swing to them, and to the accessories, which included those all-too-familiar open-toed '40s sandals (shown with old-fashioned back-seamed stockings) and tiny fur tippets at the neck, already featured at Prada. Other quiet takes on trend items that Speliopoulos features include a herringbone black-and-white mink trench; chiffon bib blouses; the batwing sweater (with a deep bateau neck, and a fine gauge turtleneck worn underneath) and spiky feather fronding on café au lait and prune chiffons.