"The constructive ideology…calls for the highest exactitude of means of expression," read part of the program for Narciso Rodriguez's sleek show for Loewe. Don't ask.

Pretentious theory aside, Rodriguez's show was a study in controlled elegance. His graphic little shift dresses and neat coats and pantsuits had the look of Jackie Onassis' sporty-deluxe wardrobe during the Ari years.

Deft leather work is the specialty of this classical Spanish house, and Rodriguez capitalized on the superb craftsmanship with contrast-insets in a Mondrian grid on those leather shifts, and refined chevron work. Subtle touches of hidden luxury included a warm-pink satin lining on the camel jacket of a mini suit, and matte caviar sequins on a chiffon evening mini. Rodriguez kept to an appropriately Spanish palette of black, honey-tan, palomino and a dash of lingerie-pink, and focused on understated luxury.

You win the pop quiz if you can count the number of chevron black-and-white mink coats we've seen this season, but Rodriguez's held its own. His top-heavy shearling tops with skinny leather pants looked hipper still—a palatable take on the '80s.