March 02, 2000 Paris
Pretentious theory aside, Rodriguez's show was a study in controlled elegance. His graphic little shift dresses and neat coats and pantsuits had the look of Jackie Onassis' sporty-deluxe wardrobe during the Ari years.
Deft leather work is the specialty of this classical Spanish house, and Rodriguez capitalized on the superb craftsmanship with contrast-insets in a Mondrian grid on those leather shifts, and refined chevron work. Subtle touches of hidden luxury included a warm-pink satin lining on the camel jacket of a mini suit, and matte caviar sequins on a chiffon evening mini. Rodriguez kept to an appropriately Spanish palette of black, honey-tan, palomino and a dash of lingerie-pink, and focused on understated luxury.
You win the pop quiz if you can count the number of chevron black-and-white mink coats we've seen this season, but Rodriguez's held its own. His top-heavy shearling tops with skinny leather pants looked hipper stilla palatable take on the '80s.