In a season that has seen battalions of smoky '80s Parisienne looks stalk the runways, Martine Sitbon, who can rightly claim this territory as her particular and rightful property, has really come into her own. Black looks opened the show like a satin high-belted jacket over a skirt formed from a patchwork of matte and shine fabrics, or a bishop-sleeve blouse with stiff culottes. Then Sitbon smiled—on stylish purple, poison yellow or mustard-gold color-ways, dazzling against the patent runway.

Sitbon's slick urban effects are counterpointed with charming artisanal detailing. This season, standouts included overscale windowpane checks created from felted wool layers; a sweater of purple mink patchwork pieces; gigantic fabric roses blooming on a purple organza skirt; a flurry of handkerchief points as a playful corsage on a close-fitting sweater; and swags of "chic punk" fine chains as trim. There was even a Sitbon take on ladylike '60s Chanel, with a tweedy ivory mohair coat embroidered with a plaid design of gold thread, encapsulating the particularly Gallic brand of chic with a punk attitude that she has always championed.