Robert Cary-Williams
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 13, 2000
By Plum Sykes
A jeep smashing through a wall of white paper, a moving forest, wire fencing, London's oldest railway arches: These images formed the backdrop for Robert Cary-Williams' third show, which was ultra London, ultra avant-garde and ultra brilliant. To Cary-Williams, clothes are something to be deconstructed and then reconstructed with ingenious zips and seaming. Take his idea of a dress—a cream, devoré satin-slip dress hung by one thread off one shoulder, hung by a zip off the other and frayed at the ends, with one side trailing on the floor. Or a shirt—make it in black cotton, bind it with ties around the waist and then add intricately pleated cuffs that zip off. For coats, Cary-Williams took a tough olive cotton trench that had an asymmetric collar and one strap at the bottom that made it just off-kilter enough to be edgy. He also had a black version, minus that naughty little strap, that was unbelievably chic and wearable. So, there was only one wearable piece in the show, but Cary-Williams is still working out his style and his attitude—he has as much potential as Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan did at the beginning. We'll wait for the cocktail dresses.A footnote, literally: Sandra Choi, the designer at Jimmy Choo, has created some nuttily fabulous shoes for this show. They were men's brogues in pale skin-colored leather, which had been molded in water on a foot, leaving imprints of toes in the shoes. Very original. Very odd. Very alternative-chic.
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