Roland Mouret

LONDON, February 15, 2000
By Plum Sykes
This boy (OK, he's 39 but looks like a kid) just gets chic-er and chic-er. Mouret's talent is to sew without seams—many of his dresses are just one piece of fabric that is held together with a single humble safety pin. As a result, his dresses have a lightness of touch that is almost unrivaled. His show, located in Borough High Street, SE1, featured a photographic studio as a set, with the models posing as though on a shoot. This gave us ample time to get a good look at sheer chiffon shirts in electric blue with giant bows, several versions of the little black dress—some floor length, some sexily backless, all very graphic and modern-looking—as well as a perfect Yves Saint Laurent-inspired trouser suit and a Poiret-esque coat. Mouret's only decoration was a giant '60s-style rose at the neck on some of the pieces that was reminiscent of the famous Chanel camellia. The ladies, and the coolsters, will be lining up.

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