Thimister
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 27, 2000
By Hamish Bowles
Showing in his new showroom space—an atmospheric turn-of-the-century Parisian atelier—Josephus Thimister's collection was an exercise in subtlety. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert's pink- and grey-powdered eighteenth-century looks—on both men and women—reflected a mood gently suggested by Thimister via Beau Brummel collars on poplin blouses, and close-to-the-body frock coats in stiff felted wools.Confined to an exquisite palette of bois de rose, bone, ink, dulled silver and tobacco, Thimister made his a message of continuity, revisiting his trademark pieces. The sheath dress with a draped wrap in back, or pelican cowl in front, was reconsidered in glazed linen or ribbed platinum lamé. Thimister's signature mohair hand-knits appeared as overscaled sweaters over side-swagged skirts, or as slim evening dresses dusted with tarnished silver sequins and ribbon thread--or even as a fragile evening stole for a shining evening sheath worn by enduringly beautiful '60s supermodel Benedetta Barzini. Thimister's oatmeal mohair hand-knit cardigan with platinum lamé pants was also the most contemporary take on the vintage Chanel redux that has proved a collection's keynote—a subtle homage to another designer who believed in evolutionary fashion.
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Fall 2000 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Arkadius -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Bella Freud Betsey Johnson Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Cerruti Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cynthia Rowley -
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Daryl K Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Elspeth Gibson Emanuel Ungaro Emporio Armani Eric Bergère -
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Fendi -
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Genny Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Halston Helmut Lang Hussein Chalayan -
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Jean Colonna Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott John Bartlett John Galliano Julien Macdonald -
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Kenzo Krizia -
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Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Marc Jacobs Mark Eisen Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nicole Miller -
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Olivier Theyskens Oscar de la Renta -
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Pamela Dennis Philosophy Prada Preen -
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Ralph Lauren Randolph Duke Richard Tyler Robert Cary-Williams Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel -
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Thimister Tommy Hilfiger Tristan Webber Trussardi 1911 TSE Tuleh -
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Valentino Vera Wang Versus Victor Alfaro Vivienne Tam -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent
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