It's an undisputed fact that Antonio Berardi knows how to cut a mean, lean pair of trousers and an ultrasexy dress. One wishes, however, that the designer would direct his energies in more controlled ways.

Berardi's show felt like a wild fireworks display. Fitted jackets were reversed to button in the back, lacy white lingerie tops morphed into flared rockabilly skirts and enormous shearling coats were savagely sliced. As if all this weren't enough, Berardi threw in distressed jeans lavished with buttons, whale-bone corsets, layered sheer slips, and hot-pink and acid-yellow gowns drowning in ruffles.

Some of these looks will guarantee a night of fun out on the town, but others, like the shaved-fur cargo Bermuda shorts, should never have made it past the drawing board.